Following the footsteps of St Patrick and touching our Christian roots

As we celebrate our national patron who brought hope to a dark and troubled land, the sites associated with his mission are provoking fresh interest, writes Michael Kelly

Perhaps one of the paradoxes of Covid-19 restrictions has been that March 17 being stripped of the parades and green beer, has allowed space for a deeper reflection on St Patrick and his mission to Ireland.

No part of the island is more associated with the ‘Apostle to the Irish’ than the land around Downpatrick (Dún Pádraig, meaning Patrick’s stronghold). It is here in the county town of Co. Down where the saint’s last resting place is found. A short distance away is Saul Church, built on the site of St Patrick’s earliest place of Christian worship on the island of Ireland dating from 432AD.

During the summer when coronavirus-related restrictions were eased and it was possible to travel, I was blessed to make a pilgrimage in the footsteps of St Patrick and his earliest followers to explore the roots of our faith.

Resonates

Remarkably for a saint who resonates around the world, Downpatrick is also home to the only permanent exhibition in the world dedicated to the saint. At the St Patrick Centre in the heart of the town, pilgrims have an opportunity to meet Patrick in his own words and explore his life, legacy and ongoing relevance.

The award-winning IMAX experience also explores Patrick’s unifying role in bringing Christians from different traditions together united in the one faith which he brought to the island.

Conscious of the popularity of the Camino to Santiago and walking tours in general, organisers decided last summer to take advantage of the eased restrictions to offer a socially-distanced ‘St Patrick’s Pilgrim Way’.

The pilgrim guides Martina Purdy, former BBC political correspondent, and former barrister, Elaine Kelly began leading pilgrims along the new camino in July and the original itinerary took in seven locations     .

The pair, who were Adoration Sisters until their convent grew too small to complete their training, have painstakingly scouted a path for pilgrims that is steeped in spirituality, history and beauty.

While practising safe social distancing, walkers on the way heard about the legacy of St Patrick and made visits to sites such as his first church at Saul.

Ancient

Following the tradition of ancient pilgrimage routes, walkers are provided with a ‘pilgrim passport’ to get stamped at the various sites.

The breath-taking sites we visited include the 1,000-year-old ruin of Inch Abbey, the saint’s national monument at Slieve Patrick with stunning views of Strangford Lough, Struell Wells where pilgrims have travelled for centuries to visit St Patrick’s well, St Patrick’s Catholic Church in Downpatrick and St Patrick’s Grave at Down Cathedral.

Since I was travelling from Dublin, I arrived in Downpatrick the night before. As I arrived at my hotel, the pilgrims who had just finished the Camino that day were settling down to a well-earned drink. People had come from differing backgrounds. Some had undoubtedly religious motivations, others were interested in the life of St Patrick and still others relished the challenge of a new walk.

Martina and Elaine recommend that the Camino is undertaken over two days with the first segment done on the morning of the first day, and the second part of the pilgrimage starting with lunch the following day.

I decided that I liked the idea of taking on the 18-mile challenge in just one day and was not disappointed.

There were about 20 people in our group and our morning began at the St Patrick Centre exhibition itself before visiting the Mound of Down where the Battle of Downpatrick took place in 1260. The ‘pilgrim passport’ has useful points to ponder like: what can I learn from Patrick’s journey? Do I want to be transformed? What change would I like to see in my life?

Tranquillity

Next we make our way to the peaceful tranquillity of Inch Abbey where the legend of the snakes was written. The abbey was destroyed in 1177, but the powerful walls stand as a testament to the faith and fortitude he brought.

A ramble along the beautiful banks of the River Quoile brings us to Saul – and the site of the first Christian church in Ireland. Here one has a sense of having reached the ‘cradle of Christianity’ on the island of Ireland. It was here that St Patrick died on March 17, 461AD. Today a building of the Church of Ireland, pilgrims can pray or reflect on Patrick’s life. The pilgrim passport simply adds: ask yourself where can I find more silence in my own life?

A much-needed lunch is served in the nearby pub The Barn at Saul where we are joined by those who are coming on the afternoon trek and those who were there for the morning alone depart.

Harry Clarke

Our next stop is Saul Catholic Church to see St Patrick’s altar stone and to marvel at the stunning Harry Clarke stained glass windows. It is a useful pause for reflection before making our way to the top of Slieve Patrick to see the tallest statue of St Patrick in the world. The statue was erected in 1932 – the same year as the International Eucharistic Congress in Dublin – and marked 1,500 years since Patrick brought Christianity to Ireland. It is a clear day and from the top we can see for miles around including the beautiful Strangford Lough where Patrick landed his boat.

Our descent takes us down in the direction of the first holy wells in Ireland at Struell. This is a pre-Christian site where Patrick is reputed to have spent a night inside the healing well where today we can collect water. It has been a site of pilgrimage for centuries, and opposite the site is a place of penance known as ‘Patrick’s Chair’.

We are blessed with both the weather and our guides. Martina and Elaine are gentle companions and as we walk the conversation moves from faith, to the beauty of the local area to coronavirus and everything in between.

The company of other walkers shortens the journey and conversations I hear range from Netflix recommendations to worries about a sick grandchild. All of human life is here, I think as we make our way back towards the town of Downpatrick and the stunning Catholic Church of St Patrick on the aptly-named St Patrick’s Avenue.

The church towers over the town and the spite dates from 1895. In 1993, a new transept was built for the expanding congregation and part of the work included the creation of St Patrick’s Shrine – a mosaic with panels showing events from the life of the saint.

Our final steps take us back through the streets of Downpatrick to Down Cathedral. St Patrick’s grave lies to the left of the church in a small graveyard with simple adornment. Again, the pilgrim passport contains welcome advice: take time to pray and be thankful. And leave whatever burden you carry on the journey of life, leave it at this holy place and journey on with the spirit of Patrick in faith, hope and love.

By chance

Martina explains that the Camino almost came about by chance. “Elaine and I were due to walk the Camino in Spain in May, but this was cancelled due to the Covid-19 epidemic…We found an incredible alternative on our doorstep.

Elaine says: “St Patrick’s Way is a journey of self-discovery. Walking in the footsteps of the great apostle of Ireland, we taste the mysticism of Patrick, the great treasures he gave to the world, and we imbibe the beauty and history of the Christian faith.

“St Patrick’s Way will go some way to help feed the malnutrition of our souls,” she says.

And so, we return nourished in soul to our lodgings at the nearby Denvir’s Hotel – Ireland’s oldest coaching inn. That celebratory glass of prosecco never tasted so good.

For more information on the Camino and overnight packages to participate in the ‘Way of St Patrick’ please contact the St Patrick Centre on 028.4461.9000 (0044.28.4461.9000 from the Republic) or see www.saintpatrickcentre.com