Mags GarganMags Gargan travels through the beautiful countryside of Co. Down following Saint Patrick’s Trail
Every March 17 people all over the world don the green, pin on some shamrocks and celebrate St Patrick’s Day, more as a celebration of Irishness these days than in memory of Ireland’s patron saint. However, behind the parades, the céilí mór and green Guinness is a fascinating life story that could rival any Hollywood blockbuster, with tales of piracy, slavery, adventure and forgiveness.
Perhaps the best way to explore the story of St Patrick is to follow in his footsteps on Saint Patrick’s Trail, a 92 mile signed driving route connecting key sites in the North which have a strong link with the saint’s life, legacy and landscape.
It was in Armagh and Down that St Patrick began his mission in Ireland, established his first church and created Armagh as the spiritual centre of the island. Following the trail between Bangor and Armagh brings pilgrims along beautiful coastal landscape, rolling countryside and sweeping views of Strangford Lough to holy sites and historic buildings.
Friendly
The North Down Museum in Bangor is a key Christian heritage site, and the perfect starting point on any St Patrick itinerary. Once the stables, haylofts, stores and laundry of Bangor castle, the museum is a beautiful, bright, family-friendly environment with interactive displays, a replica monk’s cell and costumes for dressing up and a pretty courtyard café for relaxation. The museum is home to a copy of the Antiphonary of Bangor, one of the most important manuscripts from the early Irish Church and the 9th Century Bangor Bell.
The neighbouring Bangor Abbey was founded by St Comgall in 558AD and it grew to become one of the most important seats of learning in Ireland, with almost 3,000 monks at the time of Comgall’s death in 601AD. From here two of its most famous students, St Columbanus and St Gall, set out for Europe to rekindle Christianity in the Dark Ages. The abbey was sacked the Vikings in the 9th Century and abandoned in the 10th Century. It lay in ruins until Sir James Hamilton rebuilt it as a parish church and the modern building houses a glorious Kenneth Webb mural of St Columbanus, St Gall and St Comgall.
As you journey down the beautiful Ards Peninsula, it is worth stopping off at the pretty village of Greyabbey where you will find road signs in Ulster Scots and might happen upon the filming of a new Frankenstein drama. Famous for its antique shops, it is also home to one of the finest examples of Anglo-Norman ecclesiastical architecture, in the ruin of what was once Grey Abbey. This Cistercian Abbey church and its living quarters were founded in 1193 by Affreca wife of John de Courcy, the Anglo-Norman invader of East Ulster.
The abbey is set in the landscaped parkland of the 18th Century Rosemount House where the Montgomery family still reside and recently held a wedding in the abbey church ruins. A stroll around the ruins offers the opportunity to peruse the 50 varieties of medicinal plants from the recreated herb garden.
The coffee shop at Harrisons of Greyabbey – a nursery, farm shop and restaurant- offers a wonderful view of Strangford Lough and an excellent selection of homemade scones.
A quick ferry ride (running every 30 minutes) from the fishing village of Portaferry brings you across the lough to Strangford village, where candy coloured houses welcome visitors on the waterfront. If you are in need of a break at this stage in the trail, Peter and Caroline of The Cuan Guest Inn will provide a warm welcome and an excellent selection of sea food.
Two miles outside of Downpatrick is the quaint and peaceful Saul Church – believed to be the first ecclesiastical site in Ireland and where St Patrick began his crusade to convert the Irish. St Patrick founded the church in a barn given by an early convert, the local chieftain Dichu, and the name derives from the old Irish word sabhall (barn).
Views
It is believed that Patrick died at Saul on March 17 around the year 461AD, after writing his famous Confession there as an old man. The site offers splendid views of the countryside and the nearby Slieve Patrick where a giant St Patrick statue was erected by the Diocese of Down & Connor to commemorate the 1500th anniversary of Patrick’s return to Ireland.
The present small and charming church at Saul was built in 1932 to commemorate St Patrick and is a replica of an early church with a round tower.
A functioning Church of Ireland parish church, Sunday service is celebrated here every week. An ecumenical group also meets here weekly and Dean Henry Hull says he hopes it would be seen as “a church for everyone”.
“St Patrick’s Day is our major event. We begin the day here with an early morning Communion service and then a group of pilgrims led by the bishop walk down to Down Cathedral, where there is a big ecumenical service and a wreath is laid on St Patrick’s grave.
“Afterwards, we have a marquee serving Irish stew. Then people can join the council parade as well,” he says. Dean Hull estimates about 200 people take part in the walk and the special guest this year will be the Archbishop of Canterbury.
Other sites of interest in the area include the ruins of the church of St Tassach (near Raholp), who is said to have given St Patrick the Last Rites on his deathbed in Saul, or the holy wells at Struell which are believed to have been blessed by St Patrick when he prayed here. The site features the remains of the old church alongside a stream, with a drinking well, eye well and women’s and men’s bathhouses.
North of Downpatrick are the vast ruins of Inch Abbey. Situated in peaceful surroundings beside the River Quoille, this Cistercian Abbey was founded in 1180 by John de Courcy. He commissioned one of the monks to re-write the legends of St Patrick and it was at Inch Abbey that the story of Patrick banishing the snakes from Ireland was written. The east end of the church, including the Gothic lancet windows, the chapter house and the refectory are all well preserved in the stunning countryside.
The only full size heritage railway in Ireland runs a steam train from Downpatrick to Inch Abbey (www.downrail.co.uk) and the abbey is also a popular site for fans of the Games of Thrones fantasy series which filmed some scenes here.
The town of Downpatrick houses one of the most significant stops on Saint Patrick’s trail – the saint’s grave at Down Cathedral.
Grave
Legend has it that two wild oxen transported St Patrick’s body from Saul to Downpatrick and that he was buried where they came to a standstill. Today a granite boulder with a carved cross and the name Patric marks his grave.
The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity now serves as the Church of Ireland cathedral but it began as a monastery founded on the site after St Patrick’s death. The present cathedral was built in 1818 and has magnificent stain glass windows, box pews and a beautiful organ case.
Beside the cathedral, the Saint Patrick Centre offers the only permanent exhibition in the world which tells the story of Ireland’s patron saint. The exhibition focuses on Patrick’s own words, drawn from his confession made near the end of his life. “St Patrick was the original scholar, because the first written word comes through the pen of Patrick. ‘Ego patricius peccator rusticissimus’ (I am Patrick, a sinner, a simple countryman) – these were the first words ever written in Ireland,” says Dr Tim Campbell, the centre’s director.
The centre uses an IMAX cinema, model displays, video and audio exhibits to bring to life Patrick’s story and the major impact of Irish missionaries in Dark Age Europe. The centre also houses a cafe, gift shop and art gallery.
Also nearby, is Down County Museum, a Georgian county gaol, with an impressive collection of early Christian artefacts from carved stone crosses to works of art and material relating to the saint. The museum is very child friendly with lots to touch and explore, and costumes for dressing up.
The legacy of Patrick’s work can be found in Bagenal’s Castle, Newry. It was at this site, in 1157, that the Cistercian abbey was founded. Little remains of the abbey today, but excavations have revealed human remains, pottery and a 12th century slab of granite bearing a Celtic cross.
The final stage of the trail brings you to Armagh, an elegant city known as the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland and traditionally holding the seat of both the Catholic and Church of Ireland archbishops. St Patrick’s Church of Ireland Cathedral occupies the site of St Patrick’s main church. Centuries later, St Patrick’s Catholic Cathedral was built.
This twin-spired, imposing cathedral high on its hill was started in 1840, but was suspended due to the great famine, and it was not consecrated until 1904.
Thus ends the Saint Patrick Trail for now, but plans are underway to extend it into an Irish-style Camino by linking the trail up with other major sites associated with St Patrick across Ireland. Where BnBs or hostels are not available along the route pods and other forms of glamping (glamorous camping) will be made available to pilgrims.
*For further information on Northern Ireland and Saint Patrick’s Trail go to www.discovernorthernireland.com/stpatrick or callsave 1850 230 230.
Contact Information
- The Saint Patrick Centre, St Patrick’s Square, Downpatyrick, Co. Down. Tel: 028 (048 from ROI) 44619000 www.saintpatrickcentre.com
- Down County Museum, The Mall, English Street, Downpatrick, Co. Down. Tel: 028 (048 from ROI) 4461 5218 www.downcountymuseum.com
- The Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (Down Cathedral), Downpatrick, Co. Down. Guided tours available. www.downcathedral.org
- Bangor Abbey, Abbey Street and Newtownards Road, Bangor, Co. Down. Tel: 028 (048 from ROI) 9127 0069 www.bangorabbey.org
- St Patrick’s (Catholic) Cathedral, Cathedral Road, Armagh, Co. Armagh Tel: 028 (048 from ROI) 3752 2813 www.armaghparish.net